Friday, March 18, 2016

Green Enchiladas (Enchiladas Verde)


Green Enchiladas...Before I get started, I'm just going to come out and say it... These enchiladas aren't pretty. The sauce isn't going to be some lovely shade of green that reminds you of frolicking in springtime. If you were going on a blind date with these enchiladas, your not-so-slick but well-meaning friend would tell you that they have a great personality. And, your friend would be right. These enchiladas do have a great personality, an awesome one even. They're cheesy, savory, just a little bit spicy...basically everything you've ever wanted in an enchilada. So, don't let her (I mean their) looks deter you. It's what's on the inside that counts, remember.

So, what exactly is a GREEN enchilada. Your answer to this is going to be different depending on your region. In Tex-Mex, the sauce is almost entirely tomatillos.  It's fresh, clean, a little bit tart...basically, it's all-around delicious. But...if you're in New Mexico, it's made from chiles. It's spicier, saltier...it has a lot more kick.

So now you're thinking...thanks for the geography lesson in enchiladas, but what did you make? 

Well, I'll tell you (obviously), but first...I need to explain some things. You see, I have a long, very emotional relationship with green enchiladas. They are one of my father's favorite things. He made them often, in their purest Tex-Mex form. He made them well  and with great care and pride. He carefully peeled and blended each tomatillo into a wonderful sauce and then slathered it onto carefully rolled tortillas. People travelled from far and wide just to get a small taste of his perfect enchiladas. Okay, that might be a slight exaggeration, but you get what I'm saying. Green enchiladas were a big deal, and I was raised by a master.

Also playing a part in my (apparently very enchilada-filled) childhood were my grandparents. My dad's parents went to the same Mexican restaurant every week for as long as I can remember, and when I was with them, I went too, And..I ate... Yep, you guessed it! Green enchiladas. Green...tomatillo-ey enchiladas (with a cold Big Red because..well, I was in Texas).

I'm telling you all of this because I feel you should know the nostalgia that I have when it comes to the Tex-Mex version of these enchiladas. It is important for you to understand their importance before I tell you how I DIDNT MAKE THEM LIKE THAT. 

There. It's out. You know the truth. I took the sacred Tex-Mex sauce. My father's beloved sauce. All the memories associated with my grandparents, and...I changed it. I did, and I'm not sorry.

Now before you get upset, and think I'm some kind of psycho...building you up to this beautiful, nostalgic recipe, and then blowing it to smithereens , let me be clear. I still used the tomatillos. I need them, I love them...and I would never EVER make green enchiladas without them, but...those New Mexicans (God Bless Texas) are onto something. Chiles in enchilada sauce are good. They add another layer of flavor and just enough heat. So, I combined them. It's the best of both worlds (yes, worlds). 

So no. I didn't explode my family recipes and childhood memories. I just...enhanced them, and hopefully my father will find it in his heart to forgive me someday.

Here's how you do it.


First, you'll need some of these. Tomatillos! (I told you I didn't leave them out.)

I know they look like something out of Little Shop of Horrors, but they taste good.


You'll also need these. Chiles. Really, you can use whatever chiles you want. I used poblano, jalepeno, and anaheim, but really you can adjust the types however you want, depending on the  flavor and heat level you prefer.




Next, roast them all. Tomatillos...chiles...everything goes into a very hot oven until they're almost black. 

Disclaimer: This is where things get a lot less pretty. It's okay. It tastes good. I promise.

Once they're cooked, take the skins off and chop them up.



Saute some onion and garlic.


Add a little flour, and cook it a minute or two to get rid of the raw-flour taste.



Once the flour is cooked, add chicken broth (you can use vegetable broth or water if you're keeping it vegetarian), add all the peppers and tomatillos in, and let it cook.

I know, I know...it looks gross! A good personality is not enough to look past this. Your well-meaning friend has gone too far this time!

Stay with me. It gets better.


Once it simmers for a while and the flavors have melded, BLEND IT. 

I used a handheld blender, but use what you have. A regular blender works too...just be careful because this is a hot liquid.

And...
Ta da.... 

Just like that you have wonderful, luscious (and only slightly blasphemous) green enchilada sauce, ready to be transformed into whatever your heart desires.

(Because...she really does have a GREAT personality.) 

This sauce compliments pretty much whatever kind of enchilada you like...chicken, beef, shrimp, or plain ol' cheese. You really can't go wrong.

(See..Your well-meaning friend is smarter than you think.)

I could leave you with this, but since this sauce is a combination of Tex-Mex and New-Mex (I don't know if that's a thing, but it sounds cool), I decided to show you an interpretation of both.

So, you have your sauce...here are some options for assembly.



You'll need cheese..A lot of cheese. You always need more than you think.

Two things: Use white cheese and grate it yourself. (The pre-grated doesn't melt well.)


Next, heat some vegetable/canola oil and lightly fry the tortillas. 

This will take only a couple of second per tortilla. You aren't getting them crispy (because, duh, then you can't roll them). 

You're achieving two things by doing this. One, the tortillas won't break when you roll them, and, two, the oil keeps the tortilla from absorbing too much water from the sauce (because, ew, no one wants mushy enchiladas).

You can do all the tortillas at once and stack them on paper towels to drain.

Now you're prepped ready to make enchiladas. You have options. You can go either way from here...

Tex-Mex or New-Mex (still don't know if that's a thing...still like it).

New Mexico stacks..Texas rolls. Here's what they both look like.



To make the New-Mex style,  take the tortilla and dunk it in some of your sauce. Put it flat on the plate, top with filling and cheese, and repeat, making as many layers as your heart desires.

(For these, I used a filling of vegetables (very simple..mushrooms, onions, corn, peppers...sauteed and done), but you can use anything you like...it all works the same.)

Once you've made as many layers as you want, top with a final tortilla and cheese, and bake your enchiladas until the cheese melts. You can be finished here, or...you can top it with a fried egg.

And, there they are... New-Mex Green Enchiladas.


Now for my beloved Tex-Mex...

These babies are rolled, so they take a little more effort, but they're well worth it.

Take the tortilla, fill it, and roll it. Then place it seam-side down on a plate or in a casserole dish, and keep rolling. I made these on a plate, but you can make a whole bunch of these at a time and bake them off in a casserole dish.

Once they're all rolled, bake them off in the oven until the cheese melts, and done!

So, Tex-Mex or New-Mex...whichever way you choose to roll with this (or not roll with this)...You won't be sorry!



Green Enchilada Sauce

Ingredients:

2 cups roasted chiles, skinned and chopped
4-5  roasted tomatillos, chopped
1/4 cup oil
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/3 c flour
1/2 t comino (cumin)
1/2 t oregano
salt, to taste
1 qt chicken broth (or vegetable)

Directions:

1. Cook onions and garlic in oil until just starting to brown. Add flour and cook 1-2 minutes.

2. Whisk in broth and add the rest of the ingredients. Simmer 30-45 minutes.

3. Puree and taste for salt. Add more broth or water if needed.

4. Use immediately or freeze for later use.

ENJOY!


Here they are in all their glory...Enchiladas Verdes (New-Mex and Tex-Mex).

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